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Options Growing for Fashionable Short Men
If petite women have had problems finding clothes in the past,
what about short men? "I used to try finding clothes in the
boys' department," said Joe Manson, 5 feet 5 inches tall and an
insurance salesman. "I have to wear suits to work, and it was
impossible to find anything that looked right." Mich Matsudaira,
5 feet 6 inches tall, dreamed of owning a corduroy sport coat
and a trench coat. He didn't find them for years, until he quit
his job as head of the Washington State Commission on
Asian-American Affairs and opened Mich's Short and Small Shop in
1977. "I didn't know anything about the clothing business, just
what I couldn't find," he said. Finding stock was the biggest
problem. Manufacturers neglected statistics from the National
Center for Health showing that 25 percent of the men in the
United States are 5 feet 7 inches tall or under (The average is
5 feet 9 inches) Matsudaira heard of a few businesses across the
country catering to short men, and several of them banded
together in 1980 to form the Short Men's Apparel Association of
America. "It's an informal group of retailers that got together
to try to gain some clout by combining forces. We figured that
if we could get enough volume, we would have more buying power."
THEIR GOAL was to gel manufacturers to re-proportion suits for
short men and give them the same style and fabrication that is
available to regular-Size men. Why can't clothes for small men
just be altered down from regular sizes? Ties are too long and
are out of proportion when altered. Socks are too long. Belts
are seldom short enough. Shirt sleeves are too long. The cuff
also needs to be balanced. Trousers are too long. If there is
any shape to the legs, it is cut off when they are shortened. It
is hard to keep the pockets from ending up too far back.
Crotches are too long. Boys' clothes are too small through the
shoulders. Men have bigger biceps. Members of SMAA have had
considerable success in persuading manufacturers to add short
men's clothes to their lines, but there still are problems. Some
manufacturers drop out. Oscar de la Renla quit making men's
shirts. Yves St. Laurent stopped making short men's clothes but
is coming back. Givenchy Tallia and Charles Jourdan still are
manufacturing clothes for short men and so is Palm Beach. "SHORT
MEN'S sizes are run at the end of regular sizes, so we cannot
reorder a piece if we run out," said Matsudaira. "And if the
manufacturer runs out of fabric on the regular run, it's just
too bad for us “Matsudaira said short men are not adventuresome
in trying new styles. "They don't want to be the first to wear
something. When shirts with white collars and colored bodies
came in, it was a couple of years before they would wear them.
The same thing happened with pleated pants." But because of the
work of Matsudaira and his colleagues in SMAA, short men are
finding more variety in choices. There are 75 to 80
manufacturers who make clothing for them. Customers come from as
far south as California and as far north as Vancouver, B.C., to
replenish their wardrobes at Mich's Short and Small Shop. For a
long time, short men got short shrift when it came to buying
clothes. The problem isn't solved, but it's improving.
By Marilyn Kirkby
For Seattle Times
Syracuse Herald-Journal
March 29th, 1989
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